Exfoliation the better understanding – Exfoliation is the removal of the oldest dead skin cells that cling to the skin’s outermost surface or epidermis. Exfoliation is an important part of facials. When done correctly, exfoliation leaves the skin feeling smoother and fresher looking. Exfoliation also makes it easier with the use of the right skincare products.
Why Is Exfoliation Important?
The skin is constantly generating new skin cells at the third layer (the dermis) and sending them to the surface (the epidermis) the top layer. As the cells rise to the surface they gradually die and become filled with keratin. These keratinized skin cells are essential because they give our skin its protective quality. But they are constantly sloughing off to make way for younger cells.
As we age the process of cell turnover slows down. Cells start to pile up unevenly on the skin’s surface, giving it a dry, rough, dull appearance. Exfoliation is beneficial because it removes those cells that are clinging on, revealing the fresher, younger skin cells below.
There are two forms of exfoliation
1) Mechanical Exfoliation
The dead skin cells are physically rubbed off with abrasives, for example, washcloth, brushes, or scrubs. Scrubs should use small, round, gentle abrasives like jojoba beads. Stay away from something harsh like apricot scrubs, which can cause micro-tears in your skin. Microdermabrasion is also an example of a more aggressive and effective approach to mechanical exfoliation, which comes in two types – crystal and crystal-free, or diamond-tip.
2) Chemical Exfoliation
Enzymes, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAS) loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to slough away. Facial peels are a form of chemical exfoliation. Chemical peels can be very gentle or very aggressive, depending on how strong the peel is.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids or AHA
Its primary action is to accelerate the shedding of abnormal cells in the topmost layers of the skin by decreasing their cohesiveness. The main benefits of alpha-hydroxy acids come from its ability to the removal of the outermost layer of the skin stimulates the cells in lower layers to grow and divide, causing the skin to thicken and thus diminishing visible signs of aging through “unglue” the outer layer of dead skin cells, helping increase cell turnover by removing the built-up top layers of skin, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Removing this dead layer can improve skin texture and color, unclog pores and allow moisturizers to be better absorbed by the skin.
Beta Hydroxy Acid or BHA
An accelerating skin cell turnover and help clear pores. It can penetrate more deeply than Alpha Hydroxy Acid and is gentler. Beta Hydroxy Acid is salicylic acid. Another notable aspect of salicylic acid for breakouts is that it has antimicrobial properties. That means it can be effective in killing the bacteria that cause acne. It is soluble in oil and can exfoliate oily skin areas, even within oil-rich pores. Therefore, it has a beneficial effect on acne.
How Do I Know If I Need To Exfoliate?
• A simple test you can do at home to see if you have surface dry skin cells on your skin is to take a piece of clear tape and apply it to the forehead. Rub it gently and remove. Look at the tape, and if there are little pieces of flaky skin, then you need to exfoliate!
• After washing your face, without putting any moisturizer if you feel very tight around your month and you feel the skin is stretching – is another big sign that you need exfoliation!
What Skin Care Problems Does Exfoliation Resolve?
Exfoliation is considered one of the most important techniques that you can perform on your skin to resolve certain skin problems as well as to achieve healthy and glowing skin.
• Hyper-Pigmentation/Blemished Skin (Fade Cream with Glycolic)
• Post-breakout red/dark marks (BPO & Salicylic or Phase Cream #1)
• Clogged Pores (Glycolic Gel 5%)
• Dry Skin (Glycolic Cream 5%)
• Anti-Aging (Line Erase)
• Oily/Acne Skin (Glycolic & Salicylic 5%-2%)
For sensitive skin, we suggest using the enzymes instead of the acids, as these tend to be gentler on delicate skins.
For severely sun-damaged skin, a prescription Retinol is effective because it exfoliates more deeply in the skin.
How much is too much?
If you are using chemical exfoliants and your skin starts to dry out, you may be removing too much of the skin’s protective barrier, letting out much-needed moisture, and also we highly recommend a healing product like EGF Super Charge, which is a great source of stress remover.
